Final Up to date
I bear in mind not that way back, Ukraine was one of many solely international locations on this planet open to tourism restriction-free. In fact, it was a really completely different world again then, what with the well being disaster raging on, and all these loopy, sophisticated border guidelines in place.
Whereas most of Europe shut itself off fully to tourism, Ukraine flung its doorways open to everybody, People included, with little to no necessities.
I additionally bear in mind reserving flights from London, the place I used to stay on the time, to Lviv, in Western Ukraine, at first of 2022, earlier than there have been even talks of struggle looming.
This was a really promising time: COVID guidelines have been dropping like dominoes, and Ukraine had solely lately completed lifting the remaining health-related checks.
Then the strangest factor occurred.
Russian troops began amassing at Ukraine’s Jap borders, and the following factor I knew, my plans of visiting Ukraine fell by way of as soon as a full-scale invasion was launched.
I noticed myself looking at my telephone display screen blankly, watching a collection of horrendous occasions unfold; on the identical time, my flight, scheduled for 3 days from then, acquired canceled.
I didn’t suppose I’d be ticking Ukraine off my bucket record for an extended whereas, particularly when an answer to the battle appears so intractable.
Quick ahead 2 and a half years, and right here I’m, lastly, in Lviv.
I’m one of many only a few vacationers who are brave—or perhaps reckless sufficient—to enterprise into war-torn Ukraine whereas a decision hasn’t been reached, and perhaps you’re questioning:
Is it already secure to go to Ukraine, and the way is it that I even managed to enter the nation within the first place when Russian troops proceed pushing ahead with their aggression?
I’m right here to let you know all the things I’ve seen, and what I’ve discovered from my temporary 2-day go to to Lviv in instances of struggle:
First, Why Go To Ukraine In 2025?
There are various a motive why I, as a passionate traveler, would embrace the concept of touring to Ukraine in 2025.
The primary I can consider is plainly narcissistic in nature: it’s one in every of solely three European international locations I’ve but to go to, the opposite ones being a Russian-friendly Belarus and an offbeat Moldova, and I am unsure about you, however I do not like puzzle maps lacking necessary items.
The second motive why is I undergo from overwhelming FOMO: the notorious Concern of Lacking Out.
Ukraine is a rustic at struggle, and I watched in dismay as bombs showered down within the Black Sea port metropolis of Odesa in current months, to the purpose one in every of its most traditionally important church buildings, the Transfiguration Cathedral, had its ceiling partially collapse back in 2023.
Naturally, the human tragedy is immeasurable and ought to be our major concern as this ungodly battle rages on.
Nonetheless, I might argue injury to centuries upon centuries of amassed heritage, a testomony to a rustic’s wealthy previous, and that can’t be so simply reassembled as soon as it is decreased to rubbles, is simply as heart-wrenching.
Lviv is one in every of Ukraine’s most culturally wealthy cities, generally known as Paris of the East, and residential to a UNESCO-protected historic heart full of magnificent Baroque church buildings and lesser-known medieval treasures.
I apprehensive that the longer I waited, the upper the probabilities an escalation might lead to Lviv sustaining irreparable losses: although not as closely bombarded as Odesa, or different cities on the Jap entrance, it, too, had survived its share of drone assaults.
For those who knew someplace like Paris was vulnerable to being severely broken, and even fully flattened, within the worst-case state of affairs that may’t ever be dominated out, would not you soar on the alternative to go and see it with your personal eyes earlier than… properly, it’s now not?
I do know I might.
Why Lviv?
It is One Of The Most Stunning Cities I’ve Been In Europe
I assume I’ve already given you some indication as to ‘why Lviv’.
For starters, it was a vastly fashionable vacation spot in Ukraine previous to the struggle, and because the Western portion of the nation’s largest metropolis, residence to over 710,000 individuals, it is a cultural heart second solely to the capital Kyiv in significance.
It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Web site since 1998, in recognition of its eclectic structure and plethora of richly embellished church buildings and cathedrals: to be extra exact, there are precisely 103 of them.
Which of them left a deep impression on me?
For those who’re quick on time, I might go along with the Seventeenth-century Church of the Most Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, primarily as a consequence of its brightly-painted chapels, and the medieval Armenian Cathedral, the centerpiece of Lviv’s bustling Armenian Quarter.
With an intricately embellished inside and a hovering vaulted ceiling frescoed in mild pastel tones, the 14th-century Latin Cathedral is celestially stunning, and in my books, it was solely rivaled in magnificence by the gold-clad altars of the Bernardine Monastery.
The gathering of Baroque and Renaissance choices right here is really unmatched, and actually, you would spend a complete week solely exploring Lviv’s non secular monuments and nonetheless not see all of it, or stop being mesmerized.
Not removed from the middle, there’s a stately Potocki Palace, constructed within the extravagant French model, now a museum housing numerous European artwork items––in summer time, the gardens are stated to be fairly nice to walk––and there is no Lviv with out its landmark Nationwide Opera:
Located on Prospekt Svobody, an avenue flanked by Belle époque additions, it is a routinely photographed patrimony for its columned facade and opulent foremost corridor.
Oh, and if Prospekt Svobody is town’s foremost vein, one might argue its beating coronary heart is Rynok Sq..
Bordered by colourful facades and comfy cafes and dominated by a centrally-placed Metropolis Corridor, which dates again to the nineteenth century in its current type, this sq. is Lviv’s most easily-distinguished sightseeing spot, more likely to function on magnets and memento mugs.
For those who occur to be in Lviv for the weekend, climbing up the Metropolis Corridor tower is a must-do: it solely opens on Saturdays and Sundays, and from the very high, you may be rewarded with a wide ranging panorama of the dome-dotted Leopolitan skyline.
Alternatively, you may make your approach up Excessive Fort Hill totally free, the place extra sweeping views of Lviv Outdated City await, together with the rows upon rows of communist-era condominium blocks that encroached throughout it throughout Soviet instances.
To sum it up, Lviv is downright attractive, and that alone piqued my curiosity, however there’s one other necessary piece of data I intentionally unnoticed till now:
It is One Of The Most secure Cities In Ukraine
Lviv is the most secure metropolis in Ukraine proper now, and as a matter of truth, it is perhaps safer than sure Western European cities.
Hear me out.
An enormous false impression amongst people who find themselves not following this intently is that each one of Ukraine is one large, Dantean ninth Circle of Hell strewn with battered and bruised our bodies, land mines and World Warfare I-style trenches, the place epic battles are fought on the day by day.
For those who’re a kind of individuals, my reply to you is, life is not a struggle film, pal.
I imply, have a look at the images on right here, all of which I took myself: does Lviv look war-torn to you?
Excluding Russia, Ukraine is Europe’s most sizable nation, with a complete space of 233 sq. miles––in case you have been to stick it over a map of the USA, it might prolong from the state of Missouri all the way in which to the Atlantic Ocean, and from Ohio to Georgia.
For a little bit of context, Lviv sits on the far west of Ukraine, a stone’s throw away from the Polish border, and a complete 335 miles from Kyiv, the Ukrainian capital, and an excellent farther 494 miles from Odesa, on the Black Sea Coast.
Contemplating a lot of the Russian advances have been targeted on the jap entrance and the predominantly-ethnic Russian areas of Luhansk and Donetsk, in addition to already-occupied Crimea and the broader Black Sea area, Lviv has been largely spared the brunt of the warfare.
Earlier than going, I weighed in all the professionals and cons and ended up deciding Lviv was a low-risk vacation spot:
You are Extra Doubtless To Get Knifed In London Than Bombed In Lviv?
I Beg Your Pardon?
Since 2022, ‘solely’ 68 civilian deaths have been reported within the metropolis, and an extra 276 wounded.
Sure, I agree, that is already 68 too many, however in taking into consideration that, in Kherson Oblast alone, 566 deaths have been recorded thus far, whereas Kharkiv logged in 1,699, and even within the capital area, 1,569 fatalities are reported, I made the knowledgeable determination Lviv was much less harmful to go to.
Between 2023 and 2024, the variety of knife-related crimes in London, England was a whopping 15,016, based mostly on Statista figures.
Some would declare that is apples and pears and not likely an trustworthy comparability, so let’s take a look at Lviv’s crime charges:
In accordance with Numbeo, the present degree of crime in Lviv is a low 36.90, whereas London’s is 64.55, Paris 62.03, and Barcelona 57.29.
You positively will not be blown to bits enjoyable by a park in London, except… properly, by no means thoughts.
However you may need an irregular resident––is that the politically right time period these days?––put a pointy object to your neck and wipe your pockets clear.
You possibly can depend your self fortunate in case you’re not, hem, punctured.
In different phrases, you are successfully at a greater danger of dying in a mugging incident in Lambeth or Islington, crime-ridden areas of London, than on account of Russian shelling over Lviv.
Based mostly on the information at hand, earlier developments, distance from the frontline, and its standing as a cultural heart with much less navy significance, likelihood is Lviv won’t be struck as laborious as Kyiv, Kherson, or Odesa might.
This doesn’t imply it is going to positively not be on the firing line:
This Would not Imply Lviv Is Secure
It could be irresponsible and despicably tone-deaf of me to downplay the scenario on the bottom.
Ukraine remains to be a rustic battling an aggressor, and as a part of the involved entity, Lviv has seen quite a few strikes since 2022, with civilian and navy infrastructure focused.
On September 4, 2024, 7 individuals misplaced their lives, and 64 have been injured in numerous levels of severity following a tough night time for strikes within the residential space surrounding the prepare station, the place I arrived myself only recently.
I’m telling you this to make one factor clear:
It is a fairly unpredictable scenario, and if somebody someplace decides to push a giant pink button, you will not get a lot of a warning earlier than the sky fairly actually falls down over your head…
Even in Lviv.
All it takes is taking a tram into the suburbs, the place you are much more more likely to come across ruined buildings, but to be reconstructed following current raids, and newly-added memorials in reminiscence of Lviv’s fallen heroes.
What’s The Vibe Of The Folks Proper Now?
This ties into my subsequent level: what is the vibe of the individuals proper now in Lviv?
I would not have a happiness index to confer with, so I will depend on my firsthand account solely:
The lengthy bus trip I used to be on to Lviv, the place mostly-Ukrainian passengers have been chatting amongst themselves gleefully, kids have been being their annoying selves, kicking and screaming, with little to no intervention from unbothered dad and mom;
And an adolescent sat subsequent to me blasting podcasts in Ukrainian with out their headphones on (whatever the disapproving appears I shot at them every so often), as if we weren’t all about to formally enter a struggle zone, set the temper for what was to come back subsequent.
Ukrainians, a minimum of these based mostly within the Western portion of the nation, are of their overwhelming majority unfazed by the battle.
Throughout my quick 2-day stint in Lviv I noticed teams of adolescent ladies with an excessive amount of make-up gossiping idly as they trotted down damaged cobblestones, Starbucks cups in perfectly-manicured palms, the standard terminally-bored bus terminal girl, caged behind her walk-up window, promoting tickets with the identical enthusiasm I’ve for submitting my taxes, and lovey-dovey {couples} kissing in snow-dusted park benches.
It nearly felt too… regular.
If it weren’t for the younger males casually passing by me with their service uniforms or the struggle posters plastered onto the facet of buildings, you’d hardly have the ability to inform there’s even a rustic being assaulted in any respect.
My affirmation got here with the primary air alarm:
I used to be taking photos of myself by Rynok Sq., nearing sunset, when all of a sudden sirens go off, and an unsettling male voice emanating from invisible loudspeakers encourages (in Ukrainian) that we search the closest underground shelter.
I would not have a clue what was occurring, had I not requested a 20-something lady standing by the bus cease close to the place I used to be, and her response left me fully baffled:
After revealing the content material of the alarm to me, that continued to sound loud and clear, she turned to the facet and acquired misplaced once more in her infinite TikTok scrolling, till her bus lastly confirmed.
I turned to the facet, and different individuals have been simply as unalarmed, both carrying their groceries residence at their standard tempo or smiling as they stepped out of a restaurant with mates.
From that second onward, I spotted this was merely their new actuality, and except hit with a main improvement, the occasional Russian concentrating on of buildings within the industrial suburbs doesn’t precisely make them panic.
However then once more, that is Lviv.
It is perhaps a really completely different story in Jap Ukraine.
How About Costs?
Ukraine has at all times been one of many least costly international locations to journey to in Europe on account of low wages and a decrease value of residing.
I have not been to Ukraine previous to the battle erupting to have the ability to evaluate, although I can say that it’s about as cheap to visit as Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Moldova, and the like:
Together with lodging, meals and transportation, my two nights in Lviv set me again by precisely US$145, in January 2025: meals in native eating places value a median $6-7, tram tickets are only some cents, and lodge overnights begin from an affordable $28.
A 3-bedroom apartment, Royal Italian model, with a balcony opening up onto the Outdated City and nice metropolis views, will value you $44 per night time, and in case you do not thoughts splurging somewhat, seeing all the things is dust low cost, the 5-star Grand Hotel Lviv Casino & Spa has nightly charges from solely $143.
I stayed at Sunny Hotel, to the tune of $34 an evening, a brief tram trip away from town heart, and cozy sufficient for a brief séjour.
The rooms are modest however cozy: there is a comfortable mattress with loads of blankets, a central heating system, and a functioning bathe, and on this bleak period, visitors have entry to a close-by shelter ought to they should take cowl within the occasion of a nighttime assault.
It does its job.
Test Out This Wonderful Bunker Restaurant Serving Low cost Meals
For a conventional Ukrainian eating expertise in a Soviet-era labyrinthian bunker, Kryivka is the place to go:
As welcoming as Ukrainians are, English audio system in Lviv are positively a minority, which makes ordering at eating places and conveying your wants tougher when you possibly can’t use Google Translate as roaming has failed of a sudden, and I used to be happy to seek out English-speaking workers right here.
@vinigoesglobal 📍 Kryivka Lviv Presumably the one restaurant I’d go all the way in which to a w4r zone for 😋 I imply, these pork ribs and wonderful compote?? Positively definitely worth the danger in my guide 🫣 #lviv #ukraine #easterneurope #ukrainetiktok ♬ son original – Vini | Travel Blogger
I ordered myself a giant jug of compote––a conventional Jap European smooth drink created from items of pink fruit and contemporary syrup––a traditional potato soup for starters, and a pork rib foremost, and I could not consider my invoice: roughly US$15, suggestions included.
Kryivka might be one of many trendiest, most touristy eateries on the town, so that ought to provide you with an thought of what to finances food-wise.
For dessert, head subsequent to Lviv Home made Chocolate, a widely known chocolaterie only some meters away from Rynok Sq., situated inside a five-storey Outdated City edifice that simply exudes medieval allure.
There is a cafe on the very high with a view of Lviv’s many church spires, and their sizzling chocolate is the precise melted stuff.
How I Entered Ukraine
Pardon me.
It simply occurred to me that I have not but detailed my precise journey into Ukraine.
Just lately, information got here out that Lviv Airport may reopen by the end of January, additional solidifying town’s standing as Ukraine’s most secure on the minute, however as of proper now, Ukrainian airspace is closed, so the one possibility for me was to resort to an extended, dreadful bus trip, beginning in Warsaw, Poland.
Lviv is barely 31 miles from the Polish border, and 245 miles from the capital of Poland.
Buses proceed operating between each international locations, costing round $12 when booked upfront, and carrying principally Ukrainian passengers who’re both going into Poland to make use of one of many worldwide airports to journey, or returning residence quickly to go to household.
Opposite to fashionable perception, the Ukrainian border is not closed: you are allowed to enter as a vacationer, supplied you fulfill the standard visa necessities.
People, Canadians, and most Europeans don’t want a visa to enter Ukraine, and they’re welcomed with open arms.
The border expertise itself was really probably the most tense a part of my journey to Ukraine, and never for the explanations you’d assume.
The Border Expertise
The drive from Warsaw to Lviv takes, in concept, 5 hours––in actuality, you could be sitting square-bottomed in a barely-cushioned Flixbus seat for 8-10 hours, as border formalities are lengthy and tense, involving getting on and off the car a minimum of twice, two passport checks, and a minimum of one bag screening.
That is much more enjoyable within the useless of winter, whenever you’re compelled to face outdoors, when it is a freezing 26.6°F, as a grumpy-looking Ukrainian border officer goes by way of everybody’s belongings, opening each zipper of each interior pocket, and taking his candy time in doing so.
I assume it is a good factor Flixbus has free WiFi on this route to maintain you entertained within the meantime.
Ukraine could also be open, however it’s not like vacationers are flocking in when bombs hold raining down, so I am guessing that is why border guards checked out my non-Ukrainian passport puzzlingly.
For those who’re crossing that border, you are both returning residence from overseas or visiting household, so when requested why I used to be touring to Ukraine as a foreigner proper now, I hesitantly responded, ‘I am touring as a vacationer’.
The officer did not utter a single phrase, although his split-second, razor-sharp stare deep into my eyes, by way of to my soul, felt like a thousand phrases have been being stated, although his lips did not transfer, and never a single muscle in his stone-cut, stoic face twitched.
You realize, in traditional Jap European trend.
He wished me a ‘secure journey’, and handed me my passport again stamped.
Ought to You Go to Ukraine In 2025?
For those who normally observe security recommendation issued by governments, such because the U.S. State Division or the U.Okay. House Workplace, you may need to postpone your goals of exploring Ukraine, a minimum of for now, till the scenario improves:
To the State Division, Ukraine is a Level 4 destination, which means U.S. residents ought to keep away from touring there in any respect prices.
Personally, I am not the type to observe security advisories solely:
They supply me with an even bigger image of what to anticipate, particularly when planning a visit someplace deemed high-risk, after which I coloration in stated image myself with extra in-depth, unbiased analysis.
The security recommendation pages will not let you know, for instance, that Lviv is in a a lot better place strategically than closely bombarded cities to the east or that the variety of casualties domestically may be very low––so low it might make you ponder whether you are safer within the streets of this Ukrainian metropolis than strolling alone at night time in a Western European capital.
The identical may very well be stated of quite a few different no-go zones globally:
Assume Mexico: for years now, authorities have instructed People to rethink touring to states like Sinaloa and Jalisco, citing crime and gang exercise.
For those who’ve ever set foot in Mazatlan or Puerto Vallarta, you recognize it is a very different scenario than that portrayed within the mainstream media.
Sure, some areas in these particular states are ridden with violence––this does not imply in all places is unsafe.
On the finish of the day, deciding on visiting Ukraine in 2025 is a strictly private evaluation of the dangers concerned, one you need to do your self.
Bottomline
I am not right here to encourage you to journey to a rustic at struggle: if something, my objective is to supply some nuance, and present you Lviv particularly just isn’t a full-fledged battlefield.
Based mostly by myself expertise, the most important menace right here is getting on the flawed facet of a religious Orthodox babushka, in case you unintentionally take an image with a flash in a church, and interrupt her communion with the Almighty.
Do not worry the balding grandpa in his Moscow bunker enjoying chess with the prowess of a 5-year-old.
Concern the angry-looking Ukrainian babushka in her flowery huska scarf.
Placing issues into perspective, 0.009% of Leopolitan civilians have misplaced their lives for the reason that struggle began, and 0.03% have been wounded (some gravely).
That does not sound numerically important.
On this regard, I can perceive the detached, bordering-on-nonchalant angle of the bus cease lady earlier:
You will solely develop into one of many unfortunate few in case you’re ever within the flawed place on the flawed time, and you will by no means know till it is already occurred.
At that time, there’s nothing you are able to do about it, anyhow.
Some Security Suggestions For Visiting Ukraine Throughout The Warfare
Going to Ukraine in 2025?
Listed below are some security suggestions:
- Enter from approved factors solely, such because the Hrebenne – Rava Ruska border, the primary crossing level between Poland and Ukraine proper now
- Give desire to frame cities, and areas which have direct bus and prepare connections out of Ukraine into neighboring international locations, within the occasion of an escalation
- No space in any metropolis might be deemed secure, however cultural facilities like Lviv Outdated City are typically better-surveilled by Ukrainian forces, and haven’t seen as a lot destruction
- If staying in a single day in Ukraine, guide a lodge or guesthouse that’s geared up with an underground shelter
- Obtain the Air Raid Alert Map of Ukraine, to maintain updated with the entire newest developments on the protection entrance, and discover out whether or not there are ongoing assaults in your area
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Opinions expressed listed below are the creator’s alone, not these of any financial institution, bank card issuer, lodge, airline, or different entity. This content material has not been reviewed, authorized or in any other case endorsed by any of the entities included inside the submit.
